March 31 - April 2:
From Cusco in Peru, we set off in a tourist bus southeast to Puno so we could see two archeological ruins along the way and a church with distinctive frescoes from the 1600s. The Raqchi site had over 120 ancient silos, used in Inca times for storing food to ensure food security in the dry season and in years of drought. Again, we were amazed by the Incan ingenuity and blending of their cultures with those that came before and after.
To see the sites on Lake Titicaca (the world´s highest navigable lake), we took a two day tour. The first place we stopped was the Uros Islands, famous because they are floating islands of totora reeds made by a distinct indigenous people. It was fascinating to see how they made their islands, homes and boats from the totora reeds (like Canadian bullrushes) found in the lake in that area. We noticed that many of their simple homes sported small solar panels, our first glimpse of renewable energy in use on our trip. Our next stop was Isla Amantani, where we stayed with an indigenous family that is paid like a small hostal for meals and lodgings. We found out afterwards that the tour company pays them only 10 soles of the 90 soles tour cost. There is no hostal or restaurant on the island, where a utopian socialism has created a splendid (and refreshingly quiet) community. We hiked up to the Patchepapa hill where there is a temple and views of the lake in all directions. We enjoyed the white mountain peaks of Peru and Bolivia´s Cordillera Real on the other side of the lake, fabulous views of the Amantani´s rock terraces of mixed crops, a scattering of other islands lit up at sunset, and later southern stars bright without light pollution. Dressed up in local outfits, we joined a local fiesta and danced with the elder women and our hosts´ young girls to traditional music. The next day, we walked the stone trail of Isla Taquiele, enjoyed a fish lunch and browsed the craft market. The weaving of Isla Taquiele has international recognition.
Back in Puno, we were intrigued by a meandering Good Friday street procession and prepared for our long bus trek back to Lima. We travelled via Arequipa in the southwest and then Pisco on the coast, where we discovered that Pisco (the white brandy from Peru) is from Ica and caught a glimpse of the national park there, Paracas. The area is mostly barren desert, sculpted by winds and crossed occasionally by mountain rivers that green up narrow valleys and crops.
In Lima, we were impressed with the private Museo Rafael Larco Herrera, with a fabulous collection of pottery, tapestries, paintings and gold and silver objccts from pre- and post-Conquest Peru (including displays of ancient erotica)! We read about a recent protest in Puerto Maldonado and managed to avoid the protests in Lima, starting up over the crack down on informal mining throughout the country. We witnessed small scale informal gold mining along the Rio Madre de Dios in the Amazon and were concerned about the contamination of the river system from the mercury used in the process. Hopefully our jaguars will be OK as the Heath River is better protected and upstream.
We are now excited to return to Canada as we wrap up our 3 months in Ecuador and Peru. It has been an intriguing adventure so far, with many highlights and delightful new friends, mixed with a few challenges along the way. Yet we miss family, our dog Rex, dear friends and the awakening of the earth as spring arrives in Peterborough. With Pisco (and Maracuyo) Sours and local beers, we salute and offer Mucho Gracias to Ecuador and Peru for their hospitality, history, diversity and amazing experiences along the way!
